
| 1.Introduction 1.1 Garment-Making Systems 1.1.1 HauteCouture 1.1.2 BlockPatterns 1.1.3 PatternDrafting 1.2 BackgroundtotheResearch 1.3 ProposedSolution 1.4 AimsandObjectives 2.LiteratureReview 2.1 AStudyoftheShoulderGirdle 2.1.1 DescriptionoftheShoulderGirdle 2.1.2 TheFunctionoftheHumanBodyandtheClothingShoulderGirdle 2.2 AnthropometricalStudyforClothingApplication 2.2.1 SizingSystem-AnthropometricalStudy 2.2.2 DevelopmentinAnthropometricMethods 2.3 MovementFunctioninClothingComfortandFit 2.3.1 HumanBodyMovement 2.3.2 DescribingBodyMovement 2.3.3 ApplyingDataonBodyMovementtoClothingDesign 2.3.4 ClothingComfortandFit 2.4 SystemofPatternConstruction 2.4.1 Modelling 2.4.2 DraftingSystem 2.4.3 BlockPatternConstruction 2.5 TheFittingProcessandEaseDesign 2.5.1 GeneralBackgroundofFitting 2.5.2 TypesofFit 2.5.3 TheAmountofEase 3.Comparisonof3DBodyScanningwithManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures 3.1 Introduction 3.2 Methodology 3.3 TheManualMeasurementMethod 3.3.1 ManualMeasurementResults 3.3.2 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsofManualMeasurement 3.4 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementMethod 3.4.1 HighlightLandmarksontheBody 3.4.2 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementResult 3.4.3 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsof3DMeasurement 3.5 ComparisonBetweentheResultof3DBodyScanningandManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures 3.6 AnalysisofMeasurementErrors 3.7 Summary 4.DesignClothingbythePlasterMethod 4.1 GeneralBackground 4.2 ExperimentalWork 4.2.1 PreparingtheExperiment 4.2.2 ExperimentProcess 4.2.3 ExperimentalResult 4.3 ThePlasterCastPattern 4.3.1 ThePatternfortheNaturalPosition 4.3.2 ComparedthePlasterPatternsofTheseThreePostures 4.4 CreationofCADPatternsDerivedfromthePlasterCast 4.4.1 AboutCOAT4.1 4.4.2 CreationofCOATPatternfromPlasterCast 4.5 PracticalGarmentDesign 4.5.1 PatternDesignforLimitedMovement-BasedontheNaturalPosition 4.5.2 PatternDesignforLooseFitBlouse-BasedonLiftl80PlasterCast 4.5.3 PatternDesignforaSemi-FittedBlouse-BasedonH180PlasterCast 4.5.4 ComparingPatternMeasurementsforDifferentLevelsofFit 4.6 TheFabricChoice 4.6.1 KESResultsandAnalysis 4.6.2 MaterialAnalysisoftheChosenFabric 4.7 TheFinishedRealClothes 5.TransducerApplicationintheResearch 5.1 ConstructionandOperationalPrinciplesofthePressureTransducer 5.2 TransducerDesign 5.2.1 TheFirstSensor 5.2.2 TheSecondSensor 5.2.3 TheThirdSensor 5.2.4 TheFourthSensor 5.3 TheOtherEquipmentRequiredintheExperiment 5.4 TransducerCalibration 5.5 ChoosingMeasurementPointsontheBody 5.6 ExperimentProcedure 5.6.1 ResultsforClothesBasedontheNaturalBlock 5.6.2 ResultsforClothesBasedontheL180Block 5.6.3 ResultsforClothesBasedontheH180Block 5.7 AnalysisandConclusionsfromGarmentPressureMeasurements 6.SizeSurvey 6.1 PurposeofSurvey 6.2 SubjectSource 6.3 SettingMeasurementItems 6.4 AnalysisBasicMeasurementsoftheSurvey 6.5 AnalysisParticularMeasurementsoftheSurvey 6.5.1 GirthChangeforDifferentPostures 6.5.2 LengthDifferencesinDifferentPostures 6.6 ClothingSizeSurveyforFittingTest 6.6.1 FurtherAnalysisoftheSubjectswithSmallSize 6.6.2 SampleSource 6.6.3 MeasuringtheClothes 6.6.4 AnalysisofEaseinDifferentPartsforDifferentPostures 6.7 ComparetheResultsfromPlasterMethodwiththatfromSizeSurvey 6.8 OptimisingStyleandDynamicComfortfromSleeveConstruction 6.8.1 AddingEasetotheBacktoImproveDynamicComfort 6.8.2 AddingAppropriateBackandSleeveWidthforComfort 6.8.3 ConcealingthePleat 6.8.4 ManipulatingStyle,ProportionandConstructiontoProvideEase 6.8.5 TheHemSolutionWhentheArmsAreRaised 6.8.6 SettingtheFront-BackPartitionImproveDynamicFreedom 6.8.7 DetachableGarmentSegmentsHelptoDetermineBodyExpansion 6.9 Summary 7.ConclusionsandRecommendationsforFurtherWork References Appendix1 Appendix2 Appendix3 Appendix4 Appendix5 Acknowledgement |
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