introduction
Spring， for me， has always been the happiest of seasons， signaling，
more than any other time of the year， promise. It means that cold，
dark wintertime， when I have to don endless layers of clothing to
brave the elements， is over， and I have much to look forward to--
months of warmer weather， flowers and trees in bloom， longer days，
and the pleasures of cooking and eating all the wonderful things that
the earth brings forth as it warms up.
In New York， where I live， I can get just about any spring food all
year long--asparagus from Mexico， apricots from Chile， rhubarb
from Holland， cherries from New Zealand. Perhaps I should consider
myself lucky to have access to such things whenever I care to， but
the idea of buying strawberries in the dead of winter (and at exorbi-
tant prices) seems a bit skewed to me.
I feel that food tastes best in its own season and don t mind wait-
ing for the first asparagus from California or the first ramps from
West Virginia to make their appearance in local markets; in fact，
these are things I look forward to during our harsh， soul-chilling
winters. I know that in a few short months these vegetables will be
gone， replaced by the tomatoes and sweet corn of summer， and that s
fine. Food seems more special when I realize that it s only available
for a brief time， and I see this as a challenge to myself as a cook. I
look at what s available at the produce markets and fish stands and
let whatever is freshest and best be the inspiration for my meals.
This book is a guide to the various foods that are seasonal in the
spring， with information and recipes for each to enlighten， and I
hope， inspire you to create some lovely spring meals on your own
Eggs
on the
some no[es oH 1!
warns against preparatmns using raw
recipes in this book--Cold Shad with AJ
Cold Asparagus with Watercress-Oran~
eggs. You can substitute commercia
recipes， bearing in mind that the flavor
My own way of dealing with the risk
free-range eggs (salmonella is largely th
large commercial chicken farms)， keeF
card any with cracks. When I make may(
killing procedure recommended by a fo
Times (but not， I must add， endorsed
yolks sit for 10 minutes with the vineg
recipe， before adding the oil.
Cream I use only fresh， pasteurizec
heavy cream in cooking for two teas，
ultra-pasteurized type， because it has
pasteurization， does not reduce to the
for sauces.
Fresh Herbs The more I cook， the
flavor intensity and nuances of all fre
vary. Basil， for example， can be sweet
and the only way to tell is to taste it.
recipes are guidelines; taste before ym
as you see fit. Don t be afraid to trust y
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