times， t_~OUl*ltless visitors， or course， ltqt [)ab.bJUL~ uu:~uLqjL~vn~:
They marveled at the Iron 1)og and tile ][louse of the Chines
Master， they pontificz~ted about New }tav， they caught sore~
thing of the atmosphere in memoirs， in novels， in poetry--
~ . . the ~，reen-grey shoFe that seame~z swear is liar，
Beyond the raciny， tumble o~ its foam.
Nobody however wrote a proper book about the place. It xv:
almost as though a conspiracy protected the peninsula from tc
frank or thorough a description.
I count myself lucky in having seen it for the first time lal
in a traveling life， for it was itself a little compendium of tk
world s experience， historically， aesthetically， even perhaps spit
tuallv. It reminded me constantly of places elsewhere， but r，
mained to the end absolutely， often paradoxically and occasioJ
ally absurdly itself.
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